Actichem

Cosmetic Active Ingredients

Clair Blanche

by Filed Under: Skin 2 Comments

Clair Blanche is a whitening complex composed of extracts of peony, scutellaria, and saxifraga flowers, glutathione, Arbutin, Kojic Acid, N-Acetyl-L-Tyrosine. It carries a BFAD certificate and is used by many famous local and international cosmetic brands.

clairblanche

Background:

UV Absorption

When the melanocyte is actived by UV, inflammation and pigmentation result. UV not only stimulates melanocyte directly but also through active oxygen, DNA damage, inflammatory substances, and others.

Inhibition of IL-1α Activity

When the skin is exposed to UV, IL-1α, a cytokine which induces inflammation, is released from the keratinocytes in the epidermis. IL-1α then stimulates keratinocyte-endothelin release.

Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity

In the melanocytes, tyrosine is metabolized (by mediation of tyrosinase) and melanin is generated. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity is one of the main methods of skin whitening.

Inhibition of Auto-oxydation-polymerization of Melanin and Reductive De-colorizing Action 

Of the above reactions, when DOPA-quinone changes Eu-melanin via Leuco DOPA-chrome, they react by autoxydation; black colored melanin is produced at first.

Anti-Oxidation 

After melanin has been produced, melanin polymer becomes larger through oxidation.

Repairing of DNA damage caused by UV

When people are exposed to UV, there is a risk of DNA damage. If damaged DNA is not repaired, abnormalities may result.

Promotion of Pheo-melanin Production

Two types of melanin are known: Eu-melanin and Pheo-melanin. The color of the former is black while the latter is yellow. The target is to enhance the production of more Pheo-malanin instead of Eu-melanin.

Inhibition of Melanin Production

When N-Acetyl-L-Tyrosine reacts with Tyrosine, an unknown yellow substance is produced instead of melanin. This is called competitive inhibition.

Cell Proliferation 

As people grow old, the speed of skin turn over becomes slower. Clair Blanche Whitening Complex promotes cell proliferation.

Process of CLAIR BLANCHE Efficacy

Photo from Google images.

Neem Leaf Extract

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Neem Leaf Liquid is an extract of the leaves of the neem tree, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

neem_leaves

Background:

The neem tree is an evergreen which is widely cultivated in tropical countries like India and Sri Lanka.   Neem has been used cosmetically and medicinally for thousands of years and is considered to be an equal, or even superior, to aloe in its healing properties. Researchers say that Neem could be called a “wonder tree” as every part of it is used in some form on a daily basis: the twigs as toothbrush, the oil for soap, and the leaves to maintain beautiful and healthy skin.

Traditionally, neem has been used to heal heat rashes, boils, wounds, skin blemishes, and other skin disorders. The main components of neem extract are nimbin, nimbinine, nimbandiol, nimbolide, and quercetin.

Activity:

  • Skin whitening: inhibitory effect on B16 melanoma cells
  • Anti-inflammatory: inhibitory effect on cyclogenase activity
  • Promotion of lipase activity

The combination of the whitening and anti-inflammatory activities of neem extract makes it an effective skin whitening agent. According to research, prostaglandin and histamine, which cause inflammation, are the precursors in the activation of tyrosinase.

Biocellact Chamomilla BD

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Biocellact Chamomilla BD is an extract of chamomile flowers. It was one of 8 finalists for Best Ingredients Award at Innovation Zone, In-Cosmetics 2011 at Milan, Italy.

chamomile

Background:

The differentiation of keratinocytes from Transit-Amplifying (TA) stem cells is the target of Biocellact Chamomilla BD. How is this done?

The normal process of the production of keratinocytes is explained in the diagram below:

IMG_0917

  1. The first TA-stem cell is born from stem cell or mother cell.
  2. TA-stem cells proliferate.
  3. Proliferated TA-stem cells are differentiated into normal keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are not proliferated.

The Effect of Environmental Stress on TA-Stem Cell and Resulting Skin Condition:

Due to environmental stresses that affect the skin and its functions, the proliferation of TA-stem cells decrease, more aged/stressed TA-stem cells are produced instead. This, in turn, causes lesser supply of differentiated keratinocytes. What do these all mean? There will be a delay of cell turnover in the skin resulting in dryness and wrinkles.

The protection of TA-stem cells from aging and stress is the function of Biocellact Chamomilla BD.

Activity:

  • Longevity effect on TA-stem cells: Based on studies conducted by Ichimaru, Biocellact Chamomilla BD prolongs the life span of TA-stem cells by about 20%.
  • Anti-aging/anti-stress effect on TA-stem cells: Biocellact Chamomilla BD keeps TA-stem cells in vital condition.

Bio-antiage

by Filed Under: Hair, Skin

Bio-antiage is a complex of 3 kinds of plants, namely, Pueraria Lobata Ohwi, Aloe Barbadensis Miller, and Chlorella Vulgaris Chick; a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

Background

pueraria lobataThe extract of Pueraria Lobata Ohwi has been known to have antifebrile [efficacious against fever; antipyretic] and anticramp properties. It contains isoflavones which exhibit a property like that of female hormones.

Fresh aloe extract is used to treat sunburns; its soothing effect on skin promotes healing. It has also been aloe veraknown to stimulate healthy hair growth and is effective against acne.

Chlorella is a green spherical single-celled freshwater micro-algae and has been on earth for over 2.5 chlorellabillion years. It is mainly composed of proteins and amino acids, vitamins and minerals. It is rich in beta-carotene and unsaturated fatty acids. It has been known to possess protective and healing properties.

Activity:

  • skin whitening activity
  • moisturizing effect
  • skin cells proliferation

In melanin formation inhibition tests using B16 melanoma cells, Bio-antiage exhibited a stronger melanin inhibitory effect than placenta extract.

Ichimaru and Ajinomoto Joint Technical Seminar

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Actichem, together with its two major Japanese suppliers, Ichimaru Pharcos and Ajinomoto, sponsored a technical seminar at the ballroom of the plush Richmonde Hotel in Eastwood City on Tuesday, July 2. It was a whole-day affair for this first-time ever joint technical seminar. Both companies, Ichimaru and Ajinomoto, came fully armed ready to storm the function room with a deluge of the latest technical info on cosmetic active ingredients and power formulations for skin, hair, and personal care.

ICHIMARU’S PRESENTATION

2013-07-02 08.56.08

Ichimaru opened the seminar with their topic: The Perfect Whitening and went on to discuss in detail the biosynthesis of melanin, highlighting the three important stages where melanin synthesis can be controlled: dermis, epidermis, and stratum corneum. (It couldn’t get more exciting than this!). With their presentation packed with technical information of all things whitening, including the 5-step strategy (or approach) to recover the skin from pigmentation, everyone got their fill of premium whitening technology.

Ichimaru proceeded to discuss other fine skin whitening agents, their mechanisms of activity, and unparalleled benefits:

CLAIRBLANCHE

ALPINIA WHITE

CLAIRJU

But the technical inundation didn’t end there. Towards the end of their presentation, Ichimaru unveiled their latest skin whitening offering: ABSORAGE and MANDARINCLEAR – emphasizing their main function which is to promote clarity, luminosity, and brightness in the stratum corneum level, with CUREPASSION working in the dermis level.

Ichimaru’s presentation by Mr. Norihisa Kawai.

Ichimaru’s presentation by Mr. Norihisa Kawai.

AJINOMOTO PRESENTATION

Ajinomoto’s presentation by Ms. Sok Koon.

Ajinomoto’s presentation by Ms. Sok Koon.

Ajinomoto was in no way to be left behind. Here, their presentation is outlined as follows:

Part 1:

  1. Cost-effective anionic surfactant for skin cleansing: presenting AMILITE GCK-12H  & Amisoft ECS-22SB
  2. Ajidew NL-50 in cleansing formulations
  3. Video presentation: How to Make Foam (Chime in: I know this information to be very important as well as exciting).
Part 2: Lecture
  1. Amisoft HS-11P as Novel Emulsifier
  2. Gelatinization Agent
  3. Video presentation: How to Produce Solid Perfume and How to Make BB (blemish balm) cream – a highly concealing BB-type foundation which also provides UV protection. The smooth oil gel turns into powder on the skin, leaving non-oily silky soft feel. (Chime in: This is definitely a novel product that could bring raves in the Cosmetics Industry).
Part 3: Evaluation Session: Commercial Products & ACAC Formulations
1.       Soap-based body wash, SLES-free cleanser, BB balm, solid perfume,  make-up remover
Ms. Sok Koon busily distributing product samples of ACAC formulations for sensory evaluation and answering questions.

Ms. Sok Koon busily distributing product samples of ACAC formulations for sensory evaluation and answering questions.

Ajinomoto, the world’s number one producer of amino acid-based surfactants, knows its craft beyond doubt. Their homegrown formulations for skin cleansers, hair care, and bath products are proven and tested to be stable and highly functional. One exciting part of their presentation was the actual evaluation of product samples. Here, the participants got a first-hand feel of the formulations discussed.

Participants, who work mostly in research and development, were at their element – evaluating the product samples.

Ajinomoto had certainly presented exciting and innovative formulations developed by ACAC (Ajitrade Cosmetic Application Center) which are sure to make the R&D staff of our clients busy for the months ahead.
Actichem président Felix Peru addresses thé guests.

Actichem président Felix Peru addresses thé guests.

Another highlight of the seminar was the raffle draw; at stake was 32GB 5G iPod. And the winner is (drum roll 😀 ) ——

Ichimaru awarding the iPod to Ms. Marissa Marable of Ysa Skin Care.

Ichimaru awarding the iPod to Ms. Marissa Marable of Ysa Skin Care.

On behalf of Actichem Marketing Corporation, I would like to express our heartfelt gratitude to all who participated. A total of 37 attendees from different cosmetic manufacturing companies graced the event. We thank also our suppliers who co-sponsored the seminar, Ichimaru and Ajinomoto; to the presenters, Mr. Norihisa Kawai, Marketing & Advertising Manager, Ichimaru, and Mr. Yuji Usui, Chief, Foreign Trade Div., Ichimaru; Ms. Ooi Sok Koon, Product Manager, Ajinomoto, and Mr. Keitaro Saito, Sales & Marketing Manager, Ajinomoto – thank you and more power to all of you!

(For those who had missed the technical seminar, please contact Actichem or the technical rep assigned to you to request a copy of the technical presentation).

PrincessCare

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PrincessCare is an extract of the geranium plant, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

geranium

Background:

Studies performed by Ichimaru showed that Tryptase protein stimulates the degradation of the skin’s extracellular matrix.  In a skin that is exposed to UV light, the amount of Tyrptase markedly increases resulting to skin photo aging. It was further clarified that Tryptase specifically destroys type IV collagen. Type IV collagen makes up the major matrix of the skin basement membrane. Thus, it is considered that one of the major causes of skin photo aging is the increased activity of Tryptase near the basement membrane region.

A Tryptase inhibitor, therefore, can be expected to prevent the skin from photo aging by protecting the basement membrane. PrincessCare, an extract of Geranium Robertianum L., was found to have excellent inhibitory effect on Tryptase.

Skin benefits:

  • Improvement of skin elasticity
  • Reduction of wrinkles
  • Skin moisturization
  • Whitening activity

Clairju {The Melanin Diet Theory}

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Clairju is an extract of the fruit of Prunus domestica (prunes).  The name is coined from the French word “claire” which means clear and “jus” which means juice of a fruit. The prune fruit contains compounds such as beta-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lutein, neochlogenic acid, and vitamins and minerals such as Vit. A, C, E and B complex. It is a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

prunes

Background:

Most skin whitening agents target the inhibition of melanin synthesis through the enzyme tyrosinase. For this reason, these whitening agents are often called “tyrosinase inhibitors.” But in this novel “melanin diet” theory, it argues that melanin is synthesized because the skin needs it for protection against the adverse effects of sunlight.

On the other hand, the phagocytotic action of keratinocytes consume synthesized melanin from the neighboring melanocytes. Because of this action, keratinocytes themselves turn dark (black).

Clairju works to “curb” the phagocytotic appetite of keratinocytes to eat up synthesized melanin which are contained in melanosomes. Technically, this means the inhibition of uptake of melanosomes into the keratinocytes.

Back in the late ’90s when researchers and developers of whitening agents scrambled to come up with an effective skin whitening agent, studies were conducted and possibilities were looked into in inhibiting the different stages of the synthesis of melanin. One possibility then that they were looking into was the inhibition of the uptake of melanosomes into the keratinocytes. Back in those days, this was not yet a reality, but with the development of Clairju, that vision is now realized.

Clairju can work in conjunction with other whitening agents or tyrosinase inhibitors to produce a highly effective whitening product.

Activity:

  • Inhibition of uptake of melanosomes
  • Whitening effect
  • Moisturizing Effect
  • Improvement of skin texture

Dermaveil

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Dermaveil is an extract of the bark of the white willow tree from the Salix family Salicaceous. It is a product of Ichimau Pharcos of Japan.

white willow tree bark

Background:

The main components of the bark of the white willow are phenolic glycosides (such as salicin, salicortin, acetyl salicin, picein, etc.), catechins, and flavonoids. Salicin is a phenolic glycoside contained in willows and aspens in large quantities. It is known as a material that is related to acetyl salicylic acid, the most important discovery in the history of medicine.

Salicin, which is one of the main active substances in Dermaveil, is believed to be first transformed into Salicyl Alcohol (Saligenin) and then, into Salicylic Acid in the skin. Salicylic Acid is commonly used as a skin peeling agent. If Salicin is gradually transformed into Salicylic Acid in the skin, it is expected to perform a mild peeling activity.

Dermaveil’s main activity is the improvement of skin roughness. Used by Shiseido and Kanebo, both high-end Japanese cosmetic brands which are famous worldwide.

Biobenefity

by Filed Under: Skin 1 Comment

Biobenefity is an extract from the leaves of artichoke plant, a product of Icjimaru Pharcos of Japan.

artichoke

Background:

The human body has genetic information of about 22,000 genes. The gene functions by supplying the appropriate amount of information wherever and whenever the information is needed. When the information is not useful, the gene is locked to prevent its activity. But there is a key that unlocks the gene and it is called “transcriptional factor”. One of these representative factors is “Nuclear Factorkappa B” or NF-kB. In their studies, Ichimaru made a forecast that the inhibition of NF-kB has a direct effect in protecting the skin from photo damage.

Tests on the extract of the artichoke plant produced some interesting discoveries. They found out that cynaropicrin, an active substance in artichoke extract, inhibits NF-kB. Furthermore, its NF-kB inhibitory activity is quite significant.

Biobenefity was developed as a functional ingredient for skin care to slow down the signs of aging by inhibiting the activity of NF-κB.

Activity:

  • Inhibitory effect on NF-kB hyper-transcription
  • Inhibitory effect on epidermal melanocyte proliferation
  • Inhibitory effect on melanin production
  • Whitening effect
  • Improvement of skin elasticity
  • Pore minimization

Mandarinclear

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Among cosmetic scientists and practitioners, no one will dispute the function and efficacy of Vitamin C in skin care. It has been around in many forms: powder (like the Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), liquid extracts, and supplements. In skin clinics in recent years, some had even used freshly-extracted citrus fruits such as orange and lime to use for skin lightening. The benefits of Vitamin C have long been established in cosmetics and its performance and popularity have not diminished through the years. There has been a steady stream of new and innovative natural ingredients in the past decade but ascorbic acid remains strong and has not lost its place in skin care.

mandarin orange

In this light, I introduce to you one of Ichimaru’s latest natural cosmetic ingredients – Mandarinclear. Mandarinclear is an extract of the rind of mandarin orange or ponkan, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

Background:

  • Desmoplakin

Dull skin cannot reflect light due to gap between the skin cells, roughness, and lack of tension [elasticity] among the cells. When these problems are fixed though, skin can reflect light making it luminous and radiant. Based on both in vitro and in vivo tests, Mandarinclear works to strengthen desmoplakin, a protein linking the inner and outer side of cells and aids in balanced distribution of keratin filament in the epidermis. Desmoplakin binds desmosome and keratin to make cells strong and elastic. Mandarinclear enhances the work of desmoplakin.

  • Caspase-14

Caspase-14 is a protein involved in the promotion of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) and aggregation and flexibility of keratin. Caspase-14 improves skin elasticity with its work on keratin. Mandarinclear induces the proliferation and performance of Caspase-14. 

Skin Benefits:

  • Luminosity or transparency
  • Radiancy: skin brightness and glow
  • Clarity
  • Elasticity

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