Actichem

Cosmetic Active Ingredients

Clair Blanche III: Your Total Skin Whitening and Brightening Active

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The Clair Blanche Skin Whitening Complex from Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan has come a long way. From its first launch more than 20 years ago, it has evolved into the CB II and now, there’s CB III, a total whitening and brightening complex! This only proves that Ichimaru’s Clair Blanche is truly effective in ensuring that the skin is protected from the damaging effects of the sun primarily in reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots and promoting a fair, even-toned, radiant skin which is every Filipina’s dream.

The CB III has been launched earlier this year and already, many manufacturing companies have started product developments to keep abreast with this latest offering from Ichimaru and be on the lead in the skin whitening market wherein the local cosmetic industry thrives in.

CB III has 10 active ingredients, each playing a key role in producing a whiter, brighter, radiant skin. From reduction of inflammation responses caused by UV radiation to inhibition of tyrosinase which is the key enzyme in melanin synthesis, CB III got you covered.

List of actives in CB III:

  • Botanpi Liquid B (peony root extract; anti-inflammatory)
  • Ougon Liquid B (baikalin extract; UV-blocking and UV-absorbing properties)
  • PrincessCare (geranium robertianum extract; blocks tryptaste and protects basement membrane)
  • CinderellaCare (thymus serpyllum extract; inhibits kinesin production and melanin transport)
  • AlpiniaWhite (alpine katsumadai seed extract; activates melanin brake)
  • Pacificos VAP (aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate; inhibits tyrosinase activity)
  • glutathione (induces pheo-malanin – lighter color)
  • alpha-arbutin (inhibits tyrosinase activity)
  • niacinamide (inhibits melanosome transfer)
  • tranexamic acid (lysine-derived amino acid; inhibits melanocyte activation)

For more information on this new active, please contact us.

NT Marine OceanMist CL

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  • INCI: Nannochloropsis Oceanica Extract, Capris/Caprylic Triglyceride
  • Activity: repairing and microbiota-balancing for dry, atopic and sensitive skin; enhances skin defensive barrier; reduces immune inflammation
  • Applications: repairing treatments for dry and sensitive skin esp. atopic skin; anti-aging and moisturizing day and night creams; body creams; baby care products
  • Recommended dosage: 0.5-5% in skin and haircare formulations

Extremely rich in phytocholesterol, NT Marine OceanMist CL plays a major role in repairing and boosting skin barrier function by rebuilding the fundamental extracellular lamellar matrix. It restores normal skin type for dry, atopic and sensitive skin. Moreover, it presents excellent tolerance on baby skin, thanks to a biocompatible composition, it is perfectly suitable for delicate skin, improving health and overall condition.

NT Marine OceanMist CL induces excellent cell viability and is considered as a non-inflammatory ingredient on baby skin. In sensitive and dry skin, it counteracts negative effects of inflammatory responses, restores homeostasis, and reduces skin alterations, thus, promoting overall skin health conditions. 

NT Marine OceanMist CL is the ideal solution for delicate skin.

For more information on this product, please contact us.

MICROALGAE BIOACTIVES for Cosmeceutical Applications: The Latest and Dominant Trend in the Cosmetic Industry!

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Why microalgae?

Microalgae are complex photosynthetic organisms found in marine and fresh water environments that produce valuable metabolites. They are natural products with various skin protective effects; they have been found to be very safe and highly effective and they have developed chemical defense systems to protect themselves from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation by producing bioactive compounds including secondary metabolites which are highly valuable for cosmeceutical applications.

Microalgae-derived metabolites have gained remarkable attention especially in the cosmetic industry due to their numerous properties. These properties are recognized as promising components for state-of-the-art cosmetics and cosmeceutical formulations. Microalgae are a sustainable source for powerful bioactives with diverse functions.

Our new partner, Natura-Tec of France, offers a diverse list of microalgae actives that are highly effective and safe. They are the leading producer of microalgae in Europe with more than 1 hectare of photobioreactors and open pond installations.

As an introduction of microalgae bioactives in the Philippines, we have begun a campaign on the 50+ age group market, promoting three of the microalgae actives from Natura-Tec that specifically target wrinkles, sagging and aging skin by promoting collagen synthesis, skin density and elasticity and cell proliferation.

To know more about microalgae bioactives, formulations, and other technical support, please contact me at rinaperu@actichem.com.ph. We will be glad to schedule a product presentation via Zoom for you.

Ref.: National Library of Medicine, Center for Biotechnology Information1

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IZAYOI: The Latest in Anti-Aging

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Ichimaru Pharcos recently launched its latest active ingredient for skin care called “IZAYOI.” Now, don’t be deceived by the name, for though it’s alien-sounding, it is actually derived from the fruit of the delicate rose. Yes, the flower that we all know and love. You might wonder how the lovely rose came to have “fruit”, but this is not your ordinary rose. IZAYOI is an extract of Rosa Roxburghii Tratt f. normalis, more commonly known as “chestnut rose”. The fruits are globular and very hairy and thorny and resemble chestnut, thus, the name.

The fruit of Rosa Roxburghii, from which IZAYOI is extracted, contains very high levels of vitamins and minerals, especially vitamins C and P, flavanoids and other bio-active compounds. The vitamin C content of chestnut rose fruits is about 120 times higher than that of citrus fruits.¹

It is proved that the fruit juice can halt or reverse the growth of cancers, may enhance immunity and can be used to combat stress and aging. Moreover, considerable high superoxide dismutase (SOD) can be detected in this fruit.²

Technical Background

Ageing skin is more sensitive to UV. The minimum erythemal dose or MED decreases with age. Because of this, keratinocytes are easily damaged and their survival rate becomes drastically lower. But that’s not the end of it. Dead keratinocytes could wreak havoc on the skin. They release “damage-associated molecular patterns” or DAMPs. These DAMPs, in turn, initiate inflammation in surrounding live cells. DAMPs are involved in the earliest stage of skin aging due to UV exposure.

IZAYOI Activity

Based on the characteristic features of chestnut rose fruit discussed above, IZAYOI, an extract of the fruit, has been developed to prevent skin aging caused by UV, especially for women age 40 and above. Specifically, IZAYOI inhibits UV-induced inflammation brought about by DAMPs.

IZAYOI is a very promising anti-aging active that is worth further study and development in skin care products.

To request for complete in vitro and in vivo studies of IZAYOI, please call Actichem office. Or request for a product presentation by one of our technical representatives.

Additionally, IZAYOI won both the Active Ingredients Award and the R&D Award during the Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients 2017 in Guangzhou, China.

 

References:

¹,² Globalsciencebooks.info

Proteoglycan-IPC

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Proteoglycan-IPC is a solution of proteoglycan extracted from nasal cartilage of salmon, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos, Japan. Proteoglycans are glycoproteins that have a core protein with one or more covalently attached glycosaminoglycan (GAG) chains such as chondroitin sulcate and dermatan sulfate. Proteoglycans are widely distributed in human body parts including skin as a major component of extracellular matrix together with hyaluronic acid and collagen. It has a molecular weight of about 450,000.

proteoglycan

A method to extract a large amount of high-purity proteoglycan from salmon nasal cartilage was established through a joint research project with Hirosaki University, Department of Biochemistry and Kakuhiro Corporation. Eighty pieces of salmon produce 1 kilogram of Proteoglycan-IPC.

Background:

Epidermal Growth factor (EGF) plays an important role in the regulation of cell growth. EGF decreases with aging, causing slower metabolism and the decline of cell regenerative capability.

Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan conducted a study wherein human fibroblasts were cultivated in the presence of 0.1% salmon nasal cartilage-derived proteoglycan (Proteoglycan-IPC) and hyaluronic acid content was examined. The result clarified that Proteoglycan-IPC increases the accumulation of hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts. EGF has been reported to promote the synthesis and deposition of hyaluronic acid in fibroblasts.

Activity of Proteoglycan-IPC:

Several tests were made to establish the activity and efficacy of Proteoglycan-IPC.

  • EGF-like activity
  • Promotion of Hyaluronic Acid production
  • Promotion of Collagen type 1 production
  • Improvement of rough skin
  • Wrinkle reduction
  • Improvement of skin elasticity
  • Moisturizing effect
  • Whitening effect

Application:

  • Skin care: anti-aging creams, serums, gels, and lotions; moisturizing creams, gels, and lotions

Japanese Brands with Proteoglycan-IPC:

DHC Quick Film Smoother

DHCTarget: anti-aging gel cream

Claim: Proteoglycan is more effective than hyaluronic acid.

Dr. Ci Lab. Super Moisture Gel

Dr. Ci LabTarget: anti-aging/moisturzing gel

Claim: Proteoglycan’s efficacy is the same as EGF and support for skin reborn.

Saisyunkan Cream

SaisyunkanTarget: Super anti-aging cream

Claim: Cream 20 incorporates a “very precious ingredient” – Proteoglycan.

CurePassion

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CurePassion is an extract of passionfruit (Passiflora Edulis). The plant is cultivated in Japan in the regions of Okinawa, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Amami, and Ogasawara. CurePassion was developed by Ichimaru for skin care, particularly, for the care of the lymphatic vessels in the dermal layer of the skin.

passionfruit

Background:

Lymphatic capillary extends to the dermal layer of the skin. It functions as drainage for wastes, toxins, and excess water. Photoaging degrades lymphatic vessels resulting to decreased endothelial cell adhesion. (Endothelial cell is a thin layer of flat epithelial cells that lines serous cavities, lymph vessels, and blood vessels. Epithelial cells are membranous tissues composed of one or more layers of cells). Due to decreased endothelial cell adhesion, lymph fluid leaks out causing fluid retention. This is manifested in the skin as puffiness, dullness, and visible wrinkles.

A fully functioning lymphatic system is important in keeping a healthy and firm skin. Lymphatic endothelial cell growth and lymphatic endothelial cell lumen formation are vital in the formation of new lymphatic vessels.

A fully functioning lymphatic system is important in keeping a healthy and firm skin.

In vitro tests showed that CurePassion increased the growth of lymphatic endothelial cells dose-dependently, as well as lymphatic endothelial cell lumen formation.

Activity:

  • CurePassion increases lymphatic endothelial cell growth
  • CurePassion increases lymphatic endothelial cell lumen formation
  • CurePassion improves dull skin tone (promotes skin brightness)
  • CurePassion improves epidermal barrier function and skin moisturization
  • CurePassion helps reduce wrinkles
  • CurePassion helps minimize dark circles under the eyes and eye bags
  • CurePassion helps reduce facial puffiness and promotes skin firmness
  • CurePassion helps promote healthy skin

Application:

  • Skin care: facial creams, lotions, toners, eye creams
 (All definitions from thefreedictionary.com).

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate

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Kojic Acid has been around for many years as an effective skin whitening agent. It effectively inhibits tyrosinase activity in the process of melanogenesis to help reduce the production of melanin. But there have been problems with the use of Kojic Acid. Because it has the tendency to chelate metal ions, its color easily changes. Also, since it is not strongly stable to light and heat, it oxidizes overtime.

kojic_acid_dipalmitate

But we have good news! Actichem introduces Kojic Acid Dipalmitate. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is stable to  light and heat and a wide pH range (4-9), thus, providing flexibility to formulators. Since it does not form complexes with metal ions, it is also stable against oxidation and color changes. Because of these improvements, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is expected to perform far better than its predecessor Kojic Acid.

Recommended dosage: 0.5-3%

 

Phyto Collage (N)

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Phyto Collage (N) is a colorless aqueous, plant-based solution with a high viscosity extracted from fermented soybeans, a product of Ichimaru Pharcos, Japan.

soybeans

Background:

For years, collagen has been used as a raw material for various kinds of cosmetic products. With its effective moisturization and skin protection activities, moderate viscosity, and close affinity to the skin, collagen is greatly beneficial to skin, especially in helping slow down aging.

But the collagen that is of animal origin has also its own disadvantages when it comes to heat stability, pH stability, and compatibility with other raw materials. Furthermore, there is a trend toward avoidance of raw materials of animal origin in accordance with animal protection laws in Europe and the United States. On top of it all, there has been recent problems with livestock, such as cattle, possessing FMD (foot-and-mouth disease).

Phyto Collage (N) was developed to offer a good alternative for animal collagen. A colorless aqueous solution with a high viscosity, Phyto Collage (N) is prepared by purifying high molecular weight materials, the main constituent of which is glutamic acid extracted from fermented soybeans.

Characteristics:

  • Good Moisturization Effect

Determination of TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) in the skin’s horny layer showed that Phyto Collage (N) has similar moisturization effect with that of animal origin. Phyto Collage (N) promotes the production of Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA) which is one of the components of natural mositurizing factor or NMF.

  • Excellent Skin After-feel: Phyto Collage (N) imparts smoothness to skin without tackiness.
  • Stability:

Phyto Collage (N) has more superior thermal and pH stabilities than animal collagen. It has also good compatibility with other ingredients in formulations.

Applications:

  • Skin Care: anti-aging and sun-protection creams and lotions, eye creams
  • Hair Care: shampoos, conditioners, hair tonics and creams, leave-on conditioners

Alpiniawhite

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Alpiniawhite is an extract of the seeds of Alpinia Katsumadai Hayata, a perennial plant which grows abundantly in some parts of China and Taiwan. It is a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

alpinia_katsumadai_seeds

Background:

The sun-dried seeds of the Katsumadai plant have been used for medicinal purposes. They contain flavonoids such as alpinetin, cardamonin, and saponin. Recent studies showed that the extract of the Alpnia Katsumadai plant has anti-bacterial, anti-mutagenic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and elastase inhibitory effects.

Efficacy:

In the mechanism of melanogenesis, researchers have recently discovered a new signalling pathway of tyrosinase synthesis, and in the process, finding a unique approach in suppressing melanin production. In this pathway, phospholipid-degrading enzyme (PLD1) plays a prominent role by hydrolyzing phophatidylcholine (PC), the main component of the cell membrane, into phophatidic acid (PA) and choline.

In in vitro tests conducted with B16 melanoma cells, the expression of tyrosinase decreases and intercellular melanin content declines by enhancing PLD1 activity. In this method, it is like putting a brake on the acceleration of tyrosinase, thus, suppressing the process of melanogenesis.

Tests showed that the extract of the seed of Alpinia Katsumadai Hayata, Alpiniawhite, significantly activates the PLD1 pathway resulting in a remarkable skin lightening effect.

Marinwort IPC-11 AGL

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Marinwort is a cosmetic ingredient composed of 5 kinds of algae developed to help remove cellulite; a product of Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan.

anti-cellulite

Background:

Accumulation of excessive subcutaneous fat, retention of body fluid, and denaturation of corium are processes that occur in the body forming cellulite. To reduce this excessive accumulation of fat or triacylglycerol, it is necessary to decompose it into fatty acids and glycerol by the action of lipase. The resulting fatty acids are then disposed of in the form of energy. The lipolytic enzyme lipase plays a key role in this process. Lipase is activated in adipose cells through cyclic AMP by the stimulus of some hormones such as adrenaline.

Since lipase is activated through c-AMP, substances that are capable of providing c-AMP externally or inhibit phosphodiesterase which decomposes c-AMP can be used to activate lipase in any specific area of the body.

Marinwort IP-11 AGL has been found to effectively activate lipase. That is, it helps prevent the excessive production of lipid in skin which causes cellulite.

Application:

  • Anti-cellulite products

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